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Caribbean resort fulfills every expectation
By Sarah Rodman
Sunday, January 30, 2005

PETER ISLAND, B.V.I. - In the wintertime, we all do it.
     We stare out the window forlornly at the snow/freezing rain/sleet and fantasize about whisking ourselves away to a private island just like the rich and famous do.
     We picture a secluded, tropical love nest with swaying palm trees, lapping waves and a crack staff attending to all of our needs. We fleetingly visualize a tranquil environment free from crass tourists pounding tequila shooters and singing Jimmy Buffett karaoke. We envision our wind chill-ravaged spirits magically restored by balmy temperatures, fruity drinks and seaside massages.
     Then we open our eyes, look at our bank accounts and instead pin our hopes on maybe getting to the Cape for a weekend in the summer, because fantasies don't come cheap and we're not rich and famous, after all.
     But if ``Fantasy Island'' did in fact exist - and you could afford to go there - then the Peter Island Resort and Spa surely would be in contention for the title.
     The largest private island in the British Virgin Islands - bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, the Caribbean Sea and the Sir Frances Drake Channel, and close to Tortola - this 1,300-acre paradise fulfills all of the above fantasies and more on offer. Only the appearance of Ricardo Montalban and Tattoo could make it more authentic.
     Which several rich and famous people - including Paul McCartney and, rumor has it, the late Princess Diana - have discovered. (And that was before they installed the helipad!) In fact, during a recent brief stay I ran into country music superstar Alan Jackson and his wife, Denise, merrily celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary.
     The ocean-front junior suites (winter rates from $1,170 per night) are, no lie, almost as big as my one-bedroom apartment and feature a mammoth king-size bed, a two-person hot tub, two sinks, two showerheads, a minibar and a private patio, complete with hammock, that is exactly 11 steps from the soft sands of Deadman's Beach, one of five private beaches on the island. (Nightlife and TV junkies be forewarned: Neither is reliably available here. Beyond a pleasant dinner show there are no clubs. And the one satellite dish TV set available in the communal lounge/library operated at the whims of the constant breeze. But hey, you're in paradise so get outside - or stay inside - and enjoy it!)
     Meals are included in room rates and two restaurants - one a casual beach bar and grill, the other a more formal affair - offer up sumptuous fare ranging from elaborate breakfast omelets to grilled seafood to juicy steaks to tangy desserts using copious amounts of tropical fruit. And because your meals are included in the room rates, you are free to sample a little bit of everything.
     The resort's spiffy new spa is the ultimate vision of tranquility. I awaited my elaborate 75-minute pedicure lounging in a downy soft robe, with my feet in perfumed and flowered water and a warm pillow enveloping my neck on a patio overlooking the ocean. Later I received a 90-minute full-body aromatherapy massage in a breezy outdoor bohio. No ``Soothing Sounds of the Ocean'' music was necessary because the real thing was right outside. As was a pool, a private beach and a lounge area.
     Unsurprisingly, the yacht crowd - who anchor in nearby Sprat Bay and in the resort's private harbor - make it a point to hang out and snorkel on the island's beaches, eat in its restaurants and partake of the spa treatments that include all manner of full-body scrubs, wraps and massages that incorporate indigenous natural ingredients.
     Perhaps the most attractive quality for most on the resort's exclusive guest list is the privacy. There are just 52 rooms, so the genial staff normally outnumbers the patrons even at full capacity. And for even bigger spenders who crave total anonymity, the resort has two tastefully appointed, fully stocked, multiroom hilltop villas that offer private pools, chefs and chauffeur service. (The villas can range in price from $3,000 offseason to $13,000 a night, and have their own television and stereo systems.)
     The resort offers traditional Caribbean diversions including sunset sails, windsurfing, scuba diving, day trips to neighboring islands, a fitness center, tennis courts and a pool. Not-so-traditional offerings include yacht chartering, heli-golfing and the chance to be ``deserted'' on the private ``honeymoon beach'' complete with picnic lunch delivery and a breathtaking sunset champagne toast on one of the island's high cliffs (this is your chance to get naked and play in the sand).
     And even though it's not technically fantasy island, the resort does have its own version of Mr. Roarke, in the ebullient warm personage of Hugh ``Benji'' Benjamin.
     Although it is more than likely that he will find you before you find him, by all means get to know Benji. This gracious St. Kitt's native is something akin to the governor of the island, having worked in almost every capacity here over the past 30 years. In fact, he's written a wonderful gem of a book, ``A Place Like This,'' about the history of Peter Island - tracing its original sale to a Norwegian businessman in the 1960s to its more recent ownership by one of the founders of Amway. It makes an excellent beach read (it's $18 in the gift shop).
     Whether you're a rock star or a lowly travel writer, Benji treats everyone like a treasured friend.
     Of course, unless you actually discover buried treasure, it might be hard to make it to Peter Island. But be aware the rates do dip at least a little in the spring and summer, and the weather is idyllic year-round. Honeymooners take notice: This is a great spot for your ultimate splurge.
     If you go...
     Getting there: American Airlines and US Airways both offer flights to nearby Tortola that connect through San Juan, P.R. The resort picks you up in a boat for the 25-minute ride to Peter Island (you also can take the boat for free to go to Tortola and other nearby islands for shopping).
     Staying there: Daily rates for two for the winter season are from $885 for ocean-view rooms, $1,170 for beachfront junior suites and $5,000 for villas. Offseason rates are from $650.
     Rates include three meals a day and sports activities. A variety of packages with spa treatments and other activities also are avaialble.
     For more information: Call 770-476-3273 or go to www.peterisland.com
     


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